Maperitive is a very nice application for creating great-looking maps from OSM data.
Custom rendering rules are created easily in a simple text format.
The app is under active development, constantly adding new features, and the author is very responsive to feedback.
The big news is that he just implemented basic right-to-left support, which means that one can now produce maps in Hebrew.
As an example, I have created a map of current admin boundaries
(no Hebrew – or any – text, but nevertheless)
FYI,
dimka